At VCRC Bike we're obsessed with bikes, just like you!

Founded in 2002, VCRC has always focused on our core consumer, the club racer and fast group riders. While we have provided parts for professional riders/teams, our true focus has been on race quality parts at prices that you can afford. We offer a focused product line, offering parts that we feel most racers should upgrade. Most stock bikes come with mid level components such as moderate quality handlebars, stems, seatposts, BBs, wheel bearings and so on. These are key areas to upgrade when speed counts. There is no point in racing on heavy, flexible, slow parts when it is so easy to upgrade to our parts and know you have race level equipment.

Our parts are readily available via our website and select dealers. We strive to provide a pleasant and easy shopping experience. We respond to email round the clock, sometimes within minutes but most of the time with 1-2 hours. There are exceptions to this, we do sleep occasionally and we also ride a lot just like you.

We believe in an easy return policy, we ship incredibly fast and we love to help with tech questions. You can try to stump us if you'd like, we like the challenge. We ride all the parts we sell so we are extremely familiar with our products should you have a question or concern. We're here for you!

21 Days In July Sale

Quite an exciting Tour so far

Well the first week of the Tour was not disappointing! Lots of crashes and drama has this Tour poised to be the best in several years. To celebrate this year's Tour De France, we are having quite a sale. Take 21% off your order of $200+. You can read all the details and get the coupon code here: https://www.vcrcbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=160

New Product Release

We just released our new 2010 VCRC Team Stem to match our 2010 VCRC Team bars. This stem is a little heavier than our 2010 VCRC Pro stem as the VCRC Team Stem puts an emphasis on stiffness rather than weight savings. Overall the weight is respectable and well worth the trade for stiffness for the sprinter types and larger riders who really pull on the bars when sprinting or climbing.

More info can be found here: http://www.vcrcbike.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2010teamstem

My SRAM BB has play!

A quick check of the more popular cycling message boards will reveal this gets written A LOT! It is probably our most asked question of any product we've ever sold. Why does my SRAM (or any GXP) BB have play in it? And it's not just our SRAM BB, it is any and all SRAM (GXP style) BBs.

The reason is simple, you didn't install it properly. Some customers scoff at that and say it must be the BB or the bearings themselves, but it's not. Play does not come from the bearings being worn/bad like older BBs where the spindle was part of the BB. The change to integrated spindles about 5-7 years ago was in part to fix this. Play now is caused by loose/mis-installed cranks.

And the biggest culprit is the GXP style BB. But why?

From SRAM: "The GXP system captures the left side bearing between the spindle and the left crankarm while allowing the drive-side bearing to float axially on the spindle, thereby eliminating the necessity to side-load bearings during adjustment."

Sounds great in theory as this design takes the load off the drive side bearing which usually takes the bulk of abuse from being ridden. The GXP design strives to save the drive side bearing from an early failure.

But in practice it's a headache if you don't have experience and the patience to properly install. It's not as simple as installing the cranks and torquing everything down tight. In fact, you might have to repeatedly remove and install the cranks to remove play. The GXP design uses a stepped down spindle which means the non drive side of the spindle tightens against the non drive bearing from the inside (other designs like Shimano's see the bearings tighten up against from the outside). If the width of your BB shell is off either way (too narrow or too wide) issues will creep up.

If there is play in the crank, the left arm is not fully bottomed out. Remove the arm, regrease the splines (with a heavy grease) and reinstall. But you better use a torque wrench because the non drive crankarm bolt needs roughly 54nm of torque. Not sure how much that is? Shimano 10 cranks use 1.5nm of torque! That's quite a difference.

We've heard of mechanics having to remove/re-install up to 6 times to remove play. Someone somewhere probably has done more than that. And add in the issue of the non drive crankarm bolt loosening with use and we've now got real problems. So even if you can remove play, it can come back as you ride because the bolt loosens. We've found Loctite on the threads helps with this.

But that's not all. We have seen some variation in the tolerance of GXP crankarms. Small tolerance variation in the spindle results in a less than tight fit between the crank spindle/non drive bearing interface. Heavy grease seems to fix this for a period of time but if the spindle has been worn or was made slightly out of spec at the factory you'll have to re-torque even more than normal.

So the next time you have play in your SRAM (GXP) cranks, don't blame the BB! Instead get some grease and get ready to get dirty because you got some greasing and torquing to do! Better check the facing of your frame as well. Most frame makers do NOT do this for you and it is essential to your external BB working properly. You want a square 68mm (or 70mm Italian) BB shell. Without that, anything goes!

If you absolutely cannot remove the play, you most likely have a width issue in the BB shell and you will have to add spacers to widen the BB.

New website launched

After almost 8 years of operation, our old website was put to rest last week. It served us well and kept on trucking long after it should have. But the time came to upgrade to a newer, more powerful site.

The new site has many new features such as:

• the ability to search for a product
• create an account
• email friends products of interest
• quicker, easier checkout system
• improved security
• easier navigation
• and much more!

We will be releasing several new products in the next week or two to celebrate the new website! Keep checking the site and this blog for the latest news!

Different BB types

There seems to be a new BB standard releasing every other month these days. Well, not quite that many but there are a LOT of different BB types today. In this post, we will try to explain them.

It is important to understand there are several different crank specs combined with several different frame specs.

First are the popular crank types, we will cover the 4 most popular:

Each of these require it's own type of BB.

1. Shimano 10 Speed.

2. SRAM (GXP)

3. Campy Ultra Torque

4. FSA Mega Exo.

We get a lot of questions asking if one of the above cranks is compatible with another crank's BB. The short answer is no. The first three are strictly incompatible with each other, but some have had success using a Shimano 10 BB with a FSA Mega Exo crank and vice versa. Although this is not recommended as the two specs are not 100% compatible without some modifications (as we have done to our VCRC FSA BB).

Add in the confusion of FSA having a standard model of cranks and a "Light" model of cranks (with each requiring it's own type of BB) and it gets quite complicated.

Each of the above manufacturers use a slightly different version of the same design. They all use integrated spindles. But they all implement it differently. This is in part because of patent issues and partly to be different from each other. For example, Shimano doesn't want you to use their crank with a SRAM BB and so on.

In the past few years, many frame companies decided that having a normal thread in type BB was not optimal. This led to the industry moving to press in type systems. There are many different press in designs now being used by most top manufacturers. They are:

1. BB90 (found on Trek mostly but also others)

2. BB86 (found on some Giant and Scott frames)

3. BB30 (developed by Cannondale and now adopted by quite a few companies).

Now it starts to get confusing. The 4 crank types listed above all need their own implementation of the BB90 or BB86 system. So if you have a Shimano 10 crank with BB90 or BB86 and want to switch to a SRAM crank, you can't use your BB90/Shimano or BB86/Shimano kit. You'd need a BB90/SRAM or BB86/SRAM kit.

What about BB30? Well it was first developed for use with Cannondale cranks using a 30mm spindle (most road spindles are 24mm). So none of the 4 cranks listed above work directly with BB30. You can buy a specific BB30 crank from FSA and SRAM (not available with Shimano or Campy cranks). You can also convert a BB30 frame to work with the 4 cranks above by purchasing our VCRC BB30 adapter.

Confused? We didn't even get into MTB and their slight variations on things. Maybe next time.